Author: Andrew Carter

I just completed a multi-year thru hike (MYTH) of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). It took three years. I hiked 1840 miles in 2021, 733 miles in 2022, and 122 miles in 2023. The only reason I had to hike in 2023 was a wildfire closure at the north end of the PCT in 2022. During the past two years, I've also thru hiked other, shorter US trails. I hiked the Benton MacKaye Trail (GA, NC, TN) and the Tuscarora Trail (VA, WV, MD, PA) in 2022 plus the Ozark Highlands Trail (AR) in 2023. I hope to hike the Long Trail (VT) next year and the Colorado Trail at some point in the future. Please note, all content on this site is copyright.

Mammoth to Independence, Part 1

c) Andrew Carter, 2021

Here are some photos from the last Pacific Crest Trail section I hiked this year.

I had been forced off the trail at Mammoth at the end of August by the closure of all National Forests in California due to the on-going risk of wildfires. When the National Forests were reopened, I got back on the trail on 9/17 with the hope of making it to Walker Pass by early October. If I’d succeeded in that, I would have hiked 1985 miles this year and would have left to hike in 2022 a 15-mile section near South Lake Tahoe, which I skipped due to the Caldor Fire, plus the 650-mile section from Santiam Pass, OR to the Canadian border.

I ended up getting off the trail near Independence due to smoke from the active fires in Sequoia National Park. On several days during the last week, visibility was less than 1/2 mile. The picture-perfect views one expects in the Sierra were either non-existent or transformed into depressing grays and browns. More important, I had developed a smoke-induced cough and I didn’t want to permanently impact my health.

The trail will be there next year. Let’s hope that most of the green forests it passes through will be there as well.

Smoky haze the morning of 9/18
No, I’m not a hunter.
The wind direction changed the afternoon of 9/18 and the skies cleared
Threatening skies, but it didn’t rain
Picture-perfect views on 9/19
Split rock
Muir Hut on Muir Pass
The view north from Muir Pass
On 9/21, the smoke returned
Mather Pass
The view north from Mather Pass
The view south
Looking back to Mather Pass
Interesting rock
The view west from Taboose Pass
Looking back to Taboose Pass
The Owens Valley north of Independence
Looking back to Taboose Pass
I stayed at the Courthouse Motel in Independence. That’s the Inyo County courthouse across the street.

Back on the Trail

c) Andrew Carter, 2021

The Forest Service has reopened most California National Forests. I will be back on the trail on Friday, 9/17. I have 270 miles to hike from Reds Meadow (backside of Mammoth Mountain) and Walker Pass (east of Bakersfield and Lake Isabella). If everything goes well, which means no new wildfires, I should finish in 18 days, 10/4.

That will leave 665 miles for next year — 15 miles near South Lake Tahoe which I had to skip because of the Caldor Fire and 650 miles from Santiam Pass, OR to the Canadian border.

There are currently two active fires in Sequoia National Park, but neither is currently near the Pacific Crest Trail and the trail is open. Let’s hope it stays that way.

Itinerary to Date

c) Andrew Carter, 2021

Here’s a day by day summary of my itinerary to date. Not counting zero days, I’ve hiked 112 days since I began my hike on April 3rd and I’ve covered 1731 miles. That’s an average of 15.5 miles per day

If the National Forest Service reopens the California National Forests, I hope to get back on the trail at the end of the week. My goal is to complete all of California this year except for the 15 miles of trail I skipped near South Lake Tahoe due to the Caldor Fire. That would leave for next year this small California section plus the 650 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail from Santiam Pass, OR to the Canadian border.

actual-itinerary-thru-08-30Download

Sierra City to Mammoth, Part 2

c) Andrew Carter, 2021

More photos from my most recent trail section on the PCT. I started 8/14 at Sierra City, which is north of Donner Pass. I finished on 8/30 at Mammoth. I’m hoping the Forest Service will open back up the national forests in California so that I can get the remaining 270 miles of California done this year. We’ll see.

Smoky haze near Sierra City. A theme of this section due to the Dixie Fire and the Caldor Fire.
PCT bridge over the Yuba River near Sierra City
Smoky haze obscuring the afternoon sun
Abandon hope all ye who enter here.
My assumption is that X-7A is a logging subdivision.
A Sierra Club X-Country Ski Hut
PCT underpass beneath I-80 at Donner Pass
Old section of Union Pacific RR near Donner Pass.
The concrete walls and roof were to keep the snow off in the winter.
I looked over the edge. The drawing does accurately represent the slope involved.
South of Donner Summit (US Route 40)
Sierra Club Benson Hut. I spent the night here.
The only shelter I’ve used during my hike so far.
The hiker himself
Inside the Benson Hut. Note the tri-level bunks to the right.
Rocks, rocks, and more rocks
Grouse
Squaw Valley Ski Area
Someone left this painted rock at a campsite I used.
The Desolation Wilderness near Lake Tahoe is beautiful. Mostly granite and glacial lakes.
Because of this, the Caldor Fire has not been able to burn into it.
The view looking north from Dicks Pass in the Desolation Wilderness.
That’s Dicks Lake below.
The view looking southwest.
The white stuff is ash from the Caldor Fire
Lake Aloha, Desolation Wilderness
In case you’re wondering how far it is from your current mental state to desolation.
Only three miles. But at least there’s a water taxi.
Echo Lake near Lake Tahoe, looking west. Some of the southern shore (left) has since burned. The northern shore (right) has not. There are boat-in cabins on both sides of the lake.
Lots of ash
Because of the Caldor Fire, I had to skip 15 miles of trail
from Echo Summit (US Route 50) to Carson Pass (CA Route 88).
The trail south of Carson Pass. Beautiful despite the smoky haze.
Rough going for a tree at this altitude in winter
Not much easier for a sign
American flag flying on top of Ebbetts Peak (CA Route 4). Someone may have hiked it up,
but my guess is that the flag pole was flown up by helicopter.
Two trees, weathered but surviving
The PCT from Ebbetts Pass to Sonora Pass is also amazing
The trail south of Sonora Pass was my favorite section so far. A true “but wait, there’s more” experience as you cross saddle after saddle and look into different pristine wilderness basins.
One deer to the left. Two in the trees to the right, including mother deer far right.
Entering Yosemite National Park at Dorothy Lake Pass
After Wilma Lake, the trail gets particularly difficult. The trail is heading east/west and you have
to cross over four or five different north/south creeks which drain into the Tuolumne River.
Between each creek is a ridge to climb and then descend.
Moon during the day
I camped beside this lake one night.
Waterfall on the Tuolumne River
Another waterfall on the Tuolumne River
Rock slope near Tuolumne Meadows
The PCT joins the John Muir Tail at Tuolumne Meadows
Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River
The climb up to Donahue Pass (11,100 feet)
The view northwest from Donahue Pass
Rocks at Donahue Pass
The view east from Donahue Pass
Ansel Adams Wilderness, Inyo National Forest
1000 Island Lake
Devils Postpile
Reds Meadow is on the back side of Mammoth Mountain.
I was forced off the trail here by the blanket closure of all National Forests in California.

Sierra City to Mammoth, Part 1

c) Andrew Carter, 2021

Here is the first dump of photos from the Sierra City to Mammoth portion of my 2021 PCT flip-flop. The blanket closure of National Forests in California forced me off the trail in Mammoth. I had completed 1730 miles of trail since April with 270 miles still to go in California and 650 miles in northern Oregon and Washington.

I’m hoping the California National Forests will open back up before October 1st. If so, I’ll be able to complete the remaining 270 miles in California (16 to 18 days) this year. Under any scenario, the 650 miles in Oregon and Washington (5 to 6 weeks) will have to wait until next year.

Happy trails.

End of day. A little tired.
Signs at Donner Summit on US Route 40
The Sierra Club’s Benson X-Country Ski Hut,
not too far from Donner Summit.
This is the latrine at the hut. The height compensates for snow in the winter. Besides the ladder and two doors on the front, there’s also a door on top should the snow get that high.
A rock which caught my eye
Hiking through the Squaw Valley Ski Area
near Tahoe.
Directional arrows are for the PCT and the Tahoe Rim Trail. They are one and the same on the west side of Lake Tahoe.
The haze is smoke from the Caldor Fire. At the time, the fire was west of Tahoe. This photo was taken around 9:00 am. Visibility that day was less than one mile. Not only could you smell the smoke, you could taste it.
More smoky haze from the Caldor Fire.
Tahoe Rim Trail information signs
Interesting trail engineering
A weathered tree
Ash on the trail from the Caldor Fire. This photo was taken near Echo Summit, west of Tahoe, just off US Route 50. This section of trail has now burned.
Near Lake Tahoe, the PCT crosses the old Pony Express route. This portion of trail has now burned.
Carson Pass
Left, right — you decide.
El Dorado National Forest closure order and map. I was in this national forest when it was closed due to the Caldor Fire. I had to skip 15 miles of trail southwest of Lake Tahoe.
The perfect bear hang. The key ingredient is a tree with an adequate limb.
Campsite near mountain lake
I love the moss.
More trail engineering
Poster at the Kennedy Meadows “Resort,”
north of Yosemite National Park.
Another weathered tree
Another interesting rock formation
Cougar?
Tuolumne River waterfall
A Belding ground squirrel
in Tuolumne Meadows
Taking a break on a long day.
This sign has seen better days. The winter environment is harsh at 11,100 feet.
Cracked rock
Signage at Reds Meadow “Resort”
Me in Mammoth. I think I need to burn the clothing.
That’s Mochi behind me.

8/19, Dick’s Pass, Desolation Wilderness near Lake Tahoe

c) Andrew Carter, 2021

Just after I recorded this, I learned that the trail I was on was officially closed due to the Caldor Fire. A beautiful blue sky day made me too optimistic.

As I write this three weeks later, this portion of trail hasn’t burned, but the portion of trail I was on at the end of the same day near US Route 50 at Echo Summit, has.

And here’s a photo of the morning sky and sun 24 hours earlier.